“The Sazerac Comes Back. In the early years of my reporting on the dining scene, in the 1970s, three restaurants competed for customers who liked formal, ceremonious service. All had maitres d’hotel well versed in fine points of service, and with personalities that dominated the room. They were dressed to not only the nines but the nineteens, as were the waiters. The chefs were European, but had much lower profiles than the man at the front door had. The tables were set with a complete array of china and silverware, including seldom-seen pieces as sauce spoons, fish forks and fish knives, and two kinds of soup spoons. Much service was performed on gueridons at the side of the table; many of the activities thereupon were accompanied by flames.”

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